From my perspective as a plant, timing is everything. My vascular system is most active during my growth phase, typically from late spring to mid-summer. This is when my stems are mature yet still slightly flexible—what you would call "semi-hardwood." At this time, my energy is high, and my cells are dividing rapidly, making me most receptive to forming new roots. Please approach me in the morning when my tissues are fully hydrated from the night; this gives my cutting the best internal water reserves to survive the initial separation.
Choose a healthy, disease-free section of my vine, about 4 to 6 inches long. Look for a stem with several leaf nodes (those little bumps where leaves and tendrils emerge). This is crucial because my root primordia, the latent cells with the potential to become roots, are concentrated there. Make a clean, angled cut just below a node using a sharp, sterile tool. A clean cut minimizes damage to my vascular tissues, reducing the risk of infection and allowing me to efficiently draw up water. Immediately place my cutting in a damp paper towel; I am vulnerable to air embolisms that can block my water-conducting tissues.
Gently remove the leaves from the lower half of my stem. This is not an act of cruelty but of necessity. By reducing the number of leaves, you lessen the surface area from which I lose water through transpiration. Since I no longer have roots to replace lost water, conserving my internal moisture is paramount. However, please leave at least two or three leaves at the top. I need them for photosynthesis to create the chemical energy (sugars) required to fuel the demanding process of growing new roots. You may dip my cut end into a rooting hormone powder; this mimics my natural auxins, the hormones that stimulate root growth, giving me a strong and clear signal to begin this process.
Place me into a well-draining, sterile medium. A mix of perlite and peat or coarse sand is ideal. My most immediate need is oxygen around my wounded base; saturated soil will cause my tissues to rot before I can callous and form roots. The medium should be moist but never waterlogged. You can create a humid microenvironment by covering my pot with a clear plastic bag or dome. This dramatically reduces the rate of transpiration from my remaining leaves, acting like a miniature greenhouse and preventing me from wilting. Place me in a location with bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight would cook me inside this humid dome.
Over the next 3 to 8 weeks, my energy will be directed inward. I will first form a callus over the wound to protect myself, and then, with any luck, new root initials will emerge. You can test for root growth by giving me a very gentle tug; resistance indicates I have anchored myself. Once I have a healthy set of roots, it is time to acclimate me to less humid conditions. Open the bag gradually over a week. This hardens me off, allowing my new leaves to adapt to normal atmospheric conditions. Finally, transplant me into a larger pot with rich, well-draining soil where I can truly begin my new life as an independent vine.
