You may have placed me in a spot that is too shady. As a sun-worshipping species, my very existence is driven by the conversion of sunlight into energy through photosynthesis. Flower production is an energetically expensive process. If I do not receive a minimum of six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight per day, my system will prioritize survival over reproduction. The available energy will be diverted to essential leaf and root growth instead of forming the complex structures of flowers. Without ample light, I simply cannot muster the resources to bloom.
Your feeding regimen might be unintentionally hindering my flowering cycle. I am a native of Australia, adapted to thrive in nutrient-poor, often phosphorus-sensitive soils. If you are fertilizing me with a generic, high-phosphorus plant food or a fertilizer designed for flowering plants like roses or vegetables, it can be detrimental. An excess of phosphorus can lock up other essential micronutrients in the soil, causing toxicity and preventing bloom formation. I require a specially formulated, low-phosphorus, native plant fertilizer to support healthy growth and encourage my unique flowering process.
Pruning is a form of communication, and the timing of your cuts sends me a clear signal. I form my flower buds on old wood, meaning the buds for the next season's bloom develop on the growth I produce this year. If you prune me heavily in late summer, autumn, or winter, you are most likely cutting off all the nascent flower buds. By the time spring arrives, there is nothing left to burst into bloom. The correct time to prune me is immediately after my main flowering flush has finished. This gives me ample time to produce new growth, which will then harden off and develop the next set of flower buds.
My inability to flower could be a stress response to my growing conditions. While I am a resilient plant, certain stresses can trigger a survival mode where reproduction is put on hold. Inadequate water, especially during long, hot, and dry periods, will cause me to conserve water and energy, aborting flower buds. Conversely, being planted in heavy, poorly draining soil that keeps my roots constantly wet and suffocated can lead to root rot, a severe stress that will certainly prevent flowering. Furthermore, if I am exposed to harsh, drying winds or extreme cold outside of my hardiness tolerance, my resources are directed toward recovery, not blooming.
It is important to consider my natural life cycle. If I am a very young plant, recently planted from a nursery pot, I may still be dedicating all my energy to establishing a strong root system and foliage framework. Flowering will come once I feel more secure and established in my environment, which could take a full growing season or two. Conversely, on the very rare occasion that a grafted cultivar fails, the rootstock might have taken over. This rootstock is often a hardier but less showy species that may not flower as prolifically, if at all.
