As a tuberose plant (Polianthes tuberosa), I am a sun-worshipper at heart. To truly thrive and produce my intoxicatingly fragrant flower spikes, I require a location that receives full sun. This means at least 6-8 hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. I am a tender perennial, meaning I adore warmth and will not survive a freezing winter. For most gardeners in the US, I am treated as an annual or my tubers are lifted and stored. Plant me outdoors only after all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed considerably, typically in late spring. A chilly, wet soil will cause my tuber to rot, and that is the end of me before I even begin.
My needs for soil are quite specific. I demand excellent drainage above all else; sitting in water is a death sentence. Please plant me in a loose, well-amended garden soil or a raised bed. If your soil is heavy clay, amend it generously with compost, coco coir, or sand to improve its structure. Plant my tuberous root (often called a bulb) about 2-3 inches deep and 6-8 inches apart from other tubers. Position me with the pointed end, where my shoot will emerge, facing upwards. A gentle watering after planting is all I need to settle in.
Once my green shoots break through the soil, my growth will be rapid. I am a heavy feeder and require consistent moisture during my active growth and blooming period. Water me deeply and regularly, providing about an inch of water per week, more during periods of extreme heat. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. To fuel my spectacular bloom show, feed me with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer or a fertilizer higher in phosphorus (the middle number on the package) every 4-6 weeks. This phosphorus boost encourages prolific flowering.
My glorious, white, waxy flowers typically begin to open in mid to late summer. Each sturdy spike can produce numerous blossoms that open from the bottom upwards. This is when my famed fragrance, most potent in the evening, will fill your garden. To encourage continuous blooming, you can deadhead spent flower spikes by cutting them down to the base of the plant. This stops me from putting energy into seed production and may encourage a secondary, smaller flush of flowers.
As autumn approaches and nighttime temperatures begin to dip below 50°F (10°C), my foliage will naturally yellow and die back. This is my signal that it is time to rest. In USDA zones 8-10, you may mulch heavily over my planting site and I might survive in the ground. For most of the US, however, you must carefully dig up my tuber after the foliage has died. Brush off the soil, let me dry in a warm, airy place for a week, and then store me in a mesh bag or box filled with dry peat moss or vermiculite. Keep me in a cool (50-60°F), dark, and dry place until it is time to plant me again next spring.
