From my perspective, a tiny Lobelia erinus seed, I require very specific conditions to break my dormancy. I am infinitesimally small, almost like dust, and I need light to germinate. This is my most crucial message to you: do not bury me. If you cover me with soil, I will be trapped in darkness and likely will not have the strength to push through. For me to sprout, I need to be gently pressed onto the surface of a moist, fine-textured seed-starting mix, allowing the light to reach me and encourage my awakening.
My journey begins with the perfect bed. I crave a sterile, well-draining, and light growing medium, not heavy garden soil which could harbor fungi that overwhelm me. The temperature is my clock; I need consistent warmth between 70-75°F (21-24°C) to signal that the time is right. A propagation mat is ideal for providing this bottom heat. You must keep my environment constantly, evenly moist but never waterlogged. A fine mist spray is the best way to water without disturbing me. Covering my tray with a clear plastic dome will create a humid, miniature greenhouse, conserving moisture and holding in warmth, which I find very comforting.
With the right conditions, I will begin to germinate, typically within 10-20 days. My first tiny leaves (cotyledons) will emerge. Once you see these, it is vital to remove the plastic dome to allow for air circulation and prevent damping-off disease, a deadly fungal condition. I still need very bright light, but direct, scorching sun can be too intense at this tender stage. A south-facing window or, even better, a grow light positioned just a few inches above me will prevent me from becoming leggy as I stretch desperately for more light. Continue to water me from below by placing my tray in a shallow dish of water; this encourages my roots to grow downward strongly and keeps my delicate foliage dry.
When I develop my second set of true leaves, which will look more like classic lobelia foliage, I am ready for the next step. Because I am often sown in clumps due to my size, you may need to thin us out or carefully transplant entire small clusters into slightly larger containers. Handle me exclusively by my leaves, never my fragile stem. Use a small tool to lift my entire root ball and settle me into a new cell filled with the same light mix. This gives me more room to establish a robust root system. A half-strength dose of a balanced liquid fertilizer at this stage will provide the nutrients I need to grow strong.
I am a tender perennial, often grown as an annual, and I am not accustomed to cold temperatures. Before I can move into your garden permanently, I must be hardened off. This process involves gradually introducing me to outdoor conditions over 7-10 days. Start by placing me in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours each day, slowly increasing my exposure to sunlight and breeze. Bring me back indoors at night if frost threatens. This gradual acclimatization is essential; without it, the shock of full sun and wind could stunt my growth or kill me. Once all danger of frost has passed and I am accustomed to the outdoors, I am ready to flourish and provide you with a cascade of beautiful blue, purple, or white flowers.
