Yes, you absolutely can grow hydrangeas in pots. From our perspective as plants, a container is simply a managed micro-environment. While it presents unique challenges compared to living in the earth, it also offers distinct advantages. With the right care, we can thrive and produce our magnificent blooms for many seasons from the confines of a pot.
Our root systems are fibrous and relatively shallow but they require space to breathe and access nutrients. A pot that is too small will constrict us, leading to stress, water deprivation, and stunted growth. Choose a container that is at least 18-24 inches in diameter with ample drainage holes. The material matters too; porous terracotta allows our roots to breathe but dries out faster, while glazed ceramic or plastic retains moisture longer. The single most important factor is the growing medium. We demand a high-quality, peat-free potting mix that is moisture-retentive yet well-draining. Heavy garden soil will compact, suffocate our roots, and lead to root rot.
Most hydrangea varieties prefer bright, indirect light or morning sun with afternoon shade. Intense, all-day sun can scorch our leaves and cause us to wilt dramatically, stressing our systems. Consistent moisture is the key to our happiness. Our large, soft leaves transpire water rapidly, especially in pots where our root run is limited. Check our soil daily; the top inch should feel moist. In the heat of summer, we will likely need a deep watering every day. However, we despise waterlogged feet, so ensure excess water can always drain away. Feed us with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer formulated for shrubs or a liquid feed for flowering plants in early spring and again in mid-summer to support our energy-intensive blooming process.
As temperate plants, we require a period of winter dormancy. This is the greatest challenge of container life. In the ground, the earth insulates our roots from freezing temperatures. In a pot, we are exposed on all sides and our roots are far more vulnerable to freeze-thaw cycles and extreme cold. To protect us, move the pot to a sheltered location against a building or into an unheated garage once we have dropped our leaves. The goal is to keep us dormant, not to keep us warm. We still need occasional watering during winter—just enough to prevent our root ball from completely drying out and desiccating.
Pruning needs depend entirely on our variety. Some of us, like the bigleaf types (Hydrangea macrophylla), form our flower buds on "old wood" (stems from the previous season). Pruning us at the wrong time means you will remove our potential blooms. Others, like panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata), bloom on "new wood" and can be pruned in late winter or early spring. The best practice is to know which type you have. Regularly deadheading spent flowers directs our energy back into root and foliage growth rather than seed production.
