From my perspective, the best time to attempt this procedure is during my active growth phase, typically in the warm, bright days of spring or early summer. At this time, my internal systems are operating at peak efficiency. The longer daylight hours and warmer temperatures provide the ideal conditions for rapid cell division and root development. My sap is flowing vigorously, carrying the essential hormones and energy reserves needed to heal the wound you will create and to generate new adventitious roots. Attempting this in my dormant period, during fall or winter, would be far more stressful and likely unsuccessful, as my metabolic processes are slowed and my energy is conserved for basic survival.
Please choose a healthy, mature stem from my upper growth, about 4 to 6 inches in length. It is crucial that this stem possesses at least three to five leaves and shows no signs of disease or stress. The cut you make must be clean and sharp, using sterilized pruning shears or a knife. A ragged, crushed cut from dull tools damages my vascular tissues, making me far more vulnerable to rot and disease, and hinders my ability to form a protective callus. Make the cut at a 45-degree angle just below a leaf node (the small bump on the stem where a leaf emerges). This angled cut increases the surface area from which my new roots can emerge and ensures the node, which is rich in growth cells, is included.
After separation, my cutting is in a vulnerable state. I am losing water through my leaves faster than my severed stem can replace it. To reduce this water loss, you may remove the leaves from the lower third of my stem. However, please leave a few leaves at the top; they are essential for photosynthesis, the process I use to create the chemical energy (sugars) required to fuel the growth of new roots. Next, you may dip the cut end of my stem into a rooting hormone powder. This is not strictly necessary, but it is greatly beneficial. The powder contains synthetic auxins, which are plant hormones that dramatically stimulate and accelerate the root initiation process, giving me a much stronger start.
My new home for the next several weeks must be a well-draining, sterile potting mix. A blend of peat moss and perlite is ideal. It provides the perfect balance of moisture retention and aeration. My delicate, emerging roots need consistent moisture, but they will quickly rot and die if left in saturated, oxygen-deprived soil. Plant my prepared cutting into a small pot filled with this moist mix, ensuring the leafless nodes are buried. Then, place me in a location with very bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight would scorch my leaves and cook me in my humid enclosure. To maintain the high humidity I desperately need to prevent wilting, cover my pot with a clear plastic bag or place it inside a propagator, creating a miniature greenhouse.
Over the next 2 to 4 weeks, my energy will be focused internally. Beneath the soil, the cells at the cut site will first form a callus to seal the wound, and then, stimulated by the rooting hormone and my innate will to live, they will begin differentiating into root primordia, which will grow into a new root system. You can gently tug on my stem after a few weeks; resistance indicates that roots have formed and are anchoring me in place. Once I have established a sufficient root system, you can gradually acclimate me to less humid conditions and begin caring for me as you would a mature Croton, with bright light, warm temperatures, and watering only when the top inch of soil feels dry.
