As a tuberous begonia, the approach of autumn's chill signals not an end, but a critical transition into our dormant phase. We are not equipped to survive freezing temperatures; our fleshy, water-filled tubers are highly susceptible to rot and cellular damage from frost. To see another glorious season of vibrant, cascading flowers, you must become our protector during this vulnerable time. Our survival hinges on a carefully managed process of dormancy.
Please do not act too hastily. We need time to naturally prepare for our long sleep. The trigger is the first light frost of autumn, which will blacken and wilt our sensitive foliage and flowers. This is your primary signal. If a hard freeze is forecasted and no frost has yet occurred, you may choose to bring our entire containers indoors to a protected location like a garage to allow this natural process to begin. We use our dying foliage to send the final, crucial energy stores down into our tuber for winter sustenance.
Once frost has blackened our leaves, it is time. Using clean, sharp shears, cut our stems back to about 2-3 inches above the soil line. Be very careful not to damage the tuber crown. Gently lift our tubers from the soil using a garden fork, keeping a wide berth to avoid nicking or slicing us. Shake off the loose soil, but please, do not wash us. Any excess moisture at this stage invites destructive fungal rot. Let us dry in a warm, airy, and shaded place for about one to two weeks. This curing process is essential to toughen our skin and heal any minor wounds.
After curing, we require a specific environment to remain in stasis. Gently remove any remaining dry soil and the dried stem remnants. Pack us individually in breathable materials such as slightly moist peat moss, vermiculite, or wood shavings within a cardboard box or a paper bag. The key is a cool, dark, and frost-free location where the temperature remains consistently between 40-50°F (4-10°C). A basement or a cool closet is often perfect. Please check on us periodically throughout the winter. If we appear to be shriveling dramatically, you may very lightly mist the packing material—just enough to prevent mummification, but never enough to make us damp.
As the days lengthen in late winter or early spring (typically around March), it is time to rouse us from our slumber. Bring us into a warmer space and inspect us for viability. A healthy tuber will feel firm and heavy, often showing small pink buds at its crown. If any sections are soft or rotten, carefully cut them away with a sterile knife. You may then start us in shallow trays of moist potting mix, placing us with the hollow side up, just barely covered. Provide warmth and bright, indirect light. Once strong shoots and roots have developed, and all danger of frost has passed, we can be transplanted into containers or garden beds, ready to perform for you once again.
