First, you must understand my core biological requirements. I am a tropical plant, a descendant of the mighty Ficus elastica from the warm, humid jungles of India and Indonesia. My ideal environment is one of consistent warmth, bright but filtered sunlight, and ample moisture in the air and soil. I thrive in temperatures between 60°F and 85°F (15°C to 29°C). I am extremely sensitive to the cold; temperatures dipping below 50°F (10°C) cause me significant stress, and a frost or freeze will be fatal. My large, glossy leaves are designed to capture dappled sunlight beneath a forest canopy, not the harsh, direct, full-day sun of an open field, which can scorch my foliage.
The concept of a "climate zone," specifically the USDA Hardiness Zone, is the most critical factor in answering your question. This zone map is based on the average annual minimum winter temperature, which is my greatest threat. If you live in USDA zone 10 or 11, where winter lows rarely (if ever) drop below 30°F (-1°C) to 40°F (4°C), I can potentially live outdoors year-round. In these tropical or subtropical climates, my needs for consistent warmth are largely met. If you are in zone 9, it is a borderline case; I would need a very protected location and might still suffer in an unusually cold winter. For zones 8 and below, I cannot survive the winter outdoors. The cold is simply incompatible with my cellular structure.
Even within a favorable zone, my placement in your garden is paramount. I require a specific microclimate to truly flourish. You must find a location that offers protection from the intense afternoon sun. An east-facing spot that receives gentle morning light or a area with dappled shade provided by taller trees is perfect. I also need protection from strong winds, which can shred my large leaves and dry out my soil too quickly. Planting me near a warm, south-facing wall can provide radiant heat and wind protection. Furthermore, the soil must be exceptionally well-draining. My roots despise "wet feet" and will quickly succumb to root rot if left in soggy, compacted soil. A slightly elevated bed or amending the soil with plenty of organic matter is essential.
If you plan to move me outdoors for the warmer months, you cannot simply move me from my indoor spot directly into the sun. This sudden change will shock my system, causing leaf drop and sunscald. The process must be gradual. This is called acclimatization. Start by placing me in a full-shade spot outdoors for a week. Then, over the next two to three weeks, gradually move me to a spot with slightly brighter, filtered light, allowing my leaves to adjust to the increased light levels and wind. The same careful process in reverse is necessary when bringing me back indoors before the first chill of autumn arrives.
