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Bringing Outdoor Rosemary Inside for the Winter: A Checklist

Lydia Rodarte-Quayle
2025-08-28 06:12:40

1. The Pre-Move Health and Pest Inspection

From our perspective, a sudden change in environment is stressful enough without carrying hidden problems. Before you even think of moving us inside, you must conduct a thorough examination. Look closely at our leaves, both top and underside, and along our stems. We may be hosting aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies that are merely a nuisance outdoors but will become a devastating infestation in the confined, predator-free space of your home. A strong spray of water can dislodge many pests. For a more thorough treatment, consider an insecticidal soap or neem oil solution, applied well before the move. Please also check for any signs of fungal disease or rot. Bringing a sick plant inside jeopardizes not only our survival but that of your other indoor plants.

2. The Gradual Acclimation Process (Hardening Off, In Reverse)

We have spent the entire growing season basking in full sun, wind, and fluctuating humidity. To suddenly place us on a dim windowsill is a shock to our system, causing severe leaf drop and decline. You must acclimate us gradually over 7-10 days. Begin by moving us to a slightly shadier and more sheltered location outdoors, perhaps on a porch or under a tree. Each day, increase the amount of time we spend in this less intense spot. This process, the reverse of "hardening off," allows us to slowly reduce our photosynthesis rate and thicken our leaf cuticles to reduce water loss, preparing our physiology for the lower light conditions indoors.

3. The Ideal Indoor Environment: Light, Temperature, and Humidity

Once inside, our survival depends on you replicating our ideal conditions as closely as possible. Light is our most critical need. We require a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct, bright sunlight daily. A south-facing window is ideal. Without it, we will become leggy, weak, and susceptible to disease. If such a window is not available, you must supplement with a strong grow light. Regarding temperature, we prefer it cool, between 55-65°F (13-18°C). Please keep us far away from heat vents, radiators, and fireplaces, as dry, hot air will desiccate us. Finally, humidity is a silent killer. Your heated home is likely very dry, while we are accustomed to moist air. Placing our pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensuring the pot never sits in the water) will create a localized humid microclimate around us.

4. The Critical Shift in Watering and Nutrition

Our metabolism will slow down significantly indoors due to reduced light and cooler temperatures. This means our water consumption will drop dramatically. Overwatering is now the greatest threat to our roots, which are highly susceptible to rot in cool, damp soil. You must let the top few inches of our soil dry out completely between waterings. Always check the soil with your finger before reaching for the watering can. Furthermore, our growth will largely halt, so we have no need for fertilizer during the winter months. Feeding us now will lead to a harmful buildup of salts in the soil and force weak, etiolated growth that we cannot support. Please withhold all nutrition until you return us to the strong outdoor sun in spring.

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The Plant Aide - Plant experts around you

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