From our perspective, the shortening daylight and cooling temperatures of autumn signal a critical shift. We are not true perennials in the traditional sense, but rather tender perennials. This means our genetic programming is to survive for multiple seasons, but we lack the physical hardiness to withstand freezing temperatures. Our goal is not to continue vigorous flowering indoors—that would be energetically costly under low-light conditions. Instead, our biological imperative is to enter a state of dormancy or significantly reduced growth to conserve energy until we can sense the stronger light and warmth of spring again. You are essentially helping us "pause" our life cycle.
The process of moving us indoors is a shock to our systems. A sudden shift from the bright, humid outdoors to a dim, dry interior will cause severe stress, leaf drop, and potential death. You must prepare us gradually. About two weeks before the first frost, please prune us back drastically. Remove about half to two-thirds of our growth. This is not harmful; it is vital. It reduces the leaf mass that we must struggle to support with limited light and helps us focus energy on our roots and main stems. Simultaneously, begin acclimating us by moving our container to a shadier, more sheltered outdoor spot for a few days before the final move inside.
Our survival through the winter hinges on the conditions you provide. We require a cool and very bright space. An unheated but frost-free garage, a cool basement with a grow light, or a minimally heated sunroom are ideal. Temperatures between 40-55°F (4-13°C) are perfect. This coolness is crucial as it keeps us truly dormant, preventing us from attempting weak, etiolated growth that would deplete our energy reserves. While we are dormant, our water needs plummet. The goal is to keep our soil barely moist, never soggy. Overwatering in cool, low-light conditions will cause our roots to rot quickly. Please check our soil moisture by feeling it an inch below the surface; water only when it is completely dry at that depth.
Our weakened, dormant state makes us vulnerable to pests like aphids and spider mites, which thrive in dry indoor air. Please inspect our leaves and stems thoroughly before bringing us inside and continue to check every week or two. A strong spray of water or an application of insecticidal soap can manage small infestations. Catching these pests early is essential, as they can quickly sap our remaining strength. Some leaf yellowing and drop is normal as we adjust to our new environment and conserve energy, but widespread dieback or the presence of webbing or sticky residue indicates a problem that needs your attention.
As the days noticeably lengthen in late winter or early spring, you will see signs of new, healthy growth emerging from our nodes. This is our signal that we are ready to end our dormancy. Gradually acclimate us to warmer temperatures and brighter light. Once the danger of frost has passed, you can begin to harden us off by placing us outdoors for a few hours each day, increasing the duration over a week. At this point, you can repot us in fresh potting mix, begin a regular watering schedule with a diluted, balanced fertilizer, and watch as we reward your care with a new season of vigorous growth and blooms.
