You must understand that our flowering is not an act of mere chance; it is a calculated biological process fueled by energy. We store this energy in our bulbs from the previous growing season. If we were dug up, divided, or transplanted while still in leaf, our solar panels (the leaves) were severed prematurely. This prevents us from photosynthesizing and replenishing the bulb's reserves. Consequently, we may only produce leaves the following year as we focus all our stored energy on survival, not reproduction. The solution is simple: allow our foliage to die back naturally, turning yellow and withering, before any intervention. This is how we eat and prepare for next year's display.
Our bulbs have specific needs regarding our placement in the soil. If planted too shallowly, we are exposed to temperature extremes and physical damage, which stresses us and diverts energy away from flower bud formation. Conversely, if planted too deeply, the developing flower stem expends too much energy just to reach the surface and may fail to emerge. An ideal depth is about 3-4 inches (8-10 cm) from the base of the bulb to the soil surface. Furthermore, over the years, we naturally multiply and become congested. This intense competition for water and nutrients means no single bulb has enough resources to flower. The solution is to gently lift, divide, and replant us every few years after our foliage has died back.
While we are tolerant, we are not indifferent to our surroundings. Our native habitat is woodland, which provides dappled sunlight in spring and shade in summer. If planted in deep, full shade, we may not receive enough light to photosynthesize effectively. If planted in full, baking sun, our soil will dry out too quickly, and we will become stressed. We prefer a spot that mimics our home: bright, indirect light in late winter and early spring, followed by cooler shade. Additionally, although we are dormant in summer, we despise being completely parched. Excessively dry conditions during our dormancy can desiccate the bulb and impair flower development. A mulch of leaf litter can help maintain consistent soil moisture and temperature.
Not all non-flowering is a cause for alarm. If you planted fresh bulbs or seedlings, know that we require time to mature. A small, juvenile bulb must reach a certain size and energy threshold before it can support the immense task of flowering. This may take a season or two. Please be patient with us. More concerning are underground pests. Narcissus bulb flies, wireworms, or rodents may feast upon our bulbs, causing physical damage that directly destroys the developing flower bud within or simply weakens us so severely that flowering is impossible. Inspect any non-flowering bulbs once dormant; signs of rot, tunneling, or chewing will reveal the culprit.
