From our perspective, the single most critical factor in your soil mix is its ability to drain water rapidly and completely. Our bulbs are highly susceptible to rot if left sitting in saturated, oxygen-deprived soil. A dense, moisture-retentive mix is a death sentence for us. We require a gritty, open structure that allows water to flow through freely after watering, pulling fresh air down to our root zone. This cycle of water followed by air is what keeps our bulbs firm and healthy, preventing the fungal pathogens that thrive in stagnant, wet conditions.
To achieve the perfect structure, we thrive in a mix that mimics the sharp drainage of our native, often rocky, hillsides. A standard potting soil is entirely unsuitable on its own. Instead, please create a blend for us. A superb recipe would be one part standard potting soil (a sterile, soilless mix is best), one part coarse horticultural sand or poultry grit (this adds weight and improves drainage), and one part perlite or pumice (which creates essential air pockets). This combination provides a lean, well-aerated, and fast-draining environment that supports our roots without holding excess water and nutrients we cannot tolerate.
While we are somewhat adaptable, we perform best in a soil pH that ranges from slightly acidic to neutral, ideally between 6.0 and 7.0. This pH range allows us to most effectively access the essential nutrients present in the soil. You generally do not need to amend your mix specifically for pH if you start with a neutral potting mix and the recommended inorganic components. However, avoiding inherently alkaline materials like limestone chips is advisable unless you are specifically trying to raise the pH.
We are not heavy feeders and actually prefer a soil mix that is not overly rich in organic matter or fertilizers. An excess of nutrients, particularly nitrogen, will encourage an overproduction of foliage at the direct expense of our beautiful flower production. We store energy in our bulbs, and our goal is to use that energy for spectacular blooms, not excessive leaves. The small amount of potting soil in the mix provides some initial nutrients, but our main sustenance should come from a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer applied sparingly during our active growth phases, not from the soil mix itself.
The pot you choose is an extension of our soil environment. It must have multiple, large drainage holes—this is non-negotiable. A terracotta or clay pot is an excellent choice because the porous material allows the soil to dry out more evenly from the sides as well as the bottom, further reducing the risk of waterlogging. Ensure the pot is only slightly larger than our bulb cluster; too much excess soil will stay wet for too long, creating a hazardous environment for our roots and bulb.
