From my perspective as a Calla Lily, my flowering period is an energetically expensive but crucial phase for reproduction. Once my elegant spathe (the showy part often mistaken for a petal) and the central spadix begin to wither and turn brown, it is a clear signal that this cycle is complete. This is not a sign of failure or death; it is a natural transition. My focus now shifts from blooming to survival and preparation for the next growing season. The energy that was dedicated to the flower will be redirected to my underground storage organ, the rhizome. This is where I store nutrients to fuel my dormancy and eventual re-emergence.
Your most important task is to assist me in this energy-redirection process. Do not cut down my foliage. My large, arrow-shaped leaves are now my solar panels, photosynthesizing and creating the carbohydrates that will be sent down to my rhizome for storage. If you remove these leaves too early, you starve me of this vital energy, resulting in a weaker plant that may not flower next year. Allow my leaves to remain green and healthy. Continue to provide me with bright, indirect light and regular watering to support this photosynthetic work. You may also apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength once or twice to give me an extra nutrient boost for rebuilding my reserves.
As the days shorten and temperatures drop, I will naturally begin to enter my dormant period. You will notice my leaves starting to yellow and die back. This is the expected sequence. Once the foliage has turned mostly yellow or brown, you can then gently cut it back to about 2 inches above the soil line. The plant's energy is now securely stored in the rhizome, and the above-ground parts are no longer functional. For gardeners in warmer climates (USDA zones 8-10), I can often remain in the ground year-round if well-mulched. In colder regions, or if I am grown in a container, I require different care to survive the winter.
If you live in a region with freezing winters, my rhizome must be protected. After cutting back the dead foliage, carefully dig up my rhizome from the soil. Gently brush off any excess dirt and allow me to cure (dry out) for a few days in a warm, well-ventilated area. This helps prevent rot during storage. Once dry, place me in a container filled with slightly moist peat moss or vermiculite. I need to be stored in a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement or garage, where temperatures remain consistently between 50-60°F (10-15°C). Check on me periodically during winter to ensure I am not drying out completely or becoming moldy.
After my rest period of a few months, I will be ready to grow again. As the threat of frost passes in spring, you can replant me outdoors. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sun. Plant my rhizome about 3-4 inches deep with the eyes (growth buds) facing upward. Begin watering me thoroughly, and with the combination of warm soil and moisture, I will break dormancy. New shoots will emerge, and the cycle of growth, flowering, and dormancy will begin anew, thanks to the careful energy management after my last bloom.
