From my perspective as a Dendrobium orchid, producing a keiki (a Hawaiian word for "baby") is a natural survival strategy. I often do this in response to specific environmental cues or stress. It might be that the growing season was particularly good, and I have an abundance of stored energy I wish to invest in creating a new version of myself. Alternatively, it could be a sign that my main cane is nearing the end of its life cycle, and I am ensuring my genetic lineage continues. Sometimes, drastic changes in my environment, like a significant temperature shift or issues with my root system, can trigger this asexual reproduction. It is my way of cloning myself to perpetuate my existence.
I will form these small plantlets along my cane, typically at a node. Please do not be too hasty. For the propagation to be successful, you must wait until my keiki is mature enough to survive on its own. A ready keiki will have developed several roots of its own, typically at least two to three roots that are two to three inches long. It should also have a few leaves. This indicates that it has the necessary apparatus to photosynthesize and absorb water independently. Attempting to remove a keiki before it has adequate roots is a death sentence for it, as it cannot yet sustain itself.
When the time is right, the separation must be done with care to minimize damage to both me (the mother plant) and my offspring. Using a sterilized, sharp knife or pruning shears is crucial to prevent introducing pathogens. Make a clean cut, leaving a small portion of the stem attached to the keiki. I may have a small wound where the keiki was removed, but I am resilient and will seal it over time. Handle the delicate roots of the keiki with extreme gentleness; they are its lifeline and are very susceptible to breakage.
Now independent, the keiki requires a suitable home. A very small pot is best, as a large pot will hold too much moisture around its small root system and cause rot. A fine-grade orchid potting mix, often based on sphagnum moss or fine bark chips, provides the perfect balance of moisture retention and drainage. Gently place the roots into the medium, being careful not to break or bury them too deeply. You may need to use a small stake and a soft tie to initially support the keiki and keep it upright until its roots establish a firm anchor.
The initial care period is critical. The young plant should be placed in a warm location with bright, indirect light—similar to what I, the mother plant, enjoy but perhaps slightly shadier to reduce stress. Maintain high humidity around the keiki, which can be achieved by placing its pot on a humidity tray or inside a clear plastic bag for the first few weeks. Water it carefully, keeping the potting mix slightly moist but never soggy. With consistent care, the keiki will soon begin to establish itself and eventually mature into a flowering plant, carrying my exact genetic blueprint forward.
