As a plant, my primary driver for flowering is the accumulation of sufficient light energy. I am a shade-tolerant species, but "tolerant" does not mean "preferable." If I am placed in a location that is too dark, such as deep indoors or a north-facing room with no direct sun, my survival becomes the priority. All the energy my leaves produce through photosynthesis is diverted to maintaining basic leaf and root function. There is simply no surplus energy to initiate the complex and energetically expensive process of forming flower buds. For me to bloom, I require bright, indirect light for several hours a day. This level of light tells my internal systems that conditions are favorable for reproduction and provides the fuel to make it happen.
Your feeding regimen directly influences my growth priorities. The fertilizers you apply are like my diet. If you provide a fertilizer with a high first number (Nitrogen - N), you are essentially feeding me a constant meal of leafy growth stimulants. I will respond by producing abundant, beautiful, dark green foliage, as that is what the nitrogen is instructing me to do. However, to trigger and support flowering, I require a different nutritional balance. I need more phosphorus (the second number in the fertilizer ratio, P) and potassium (K). Phosphorus is crucial for energy transfer and root development, which supports the flowering process, while potassium aids in overall plant health and flower formation. A balanced, bloom-boosting fertilizer will give me the correct signals and building blocks to produce buds.
My root system is my anchor and my mouth; its comfort dictates my overall well-being. Two common issues prevent flowering from this perspective: being pot-bound and poor drainage. If my roots have completely filled the pot, they become congested and stressed. This stress signals that conditions are crowded and potentially dangerous, making reproduction a low priority. Conversely, if the potting mix is too heavy and retains too much water, my roots suffocate from a lack of oxygen. Soggy, oxygen-starved roots cannot function properly to uptake the water and nutrients I need, leaving me weak and unable to support blooms. A well-draining, slightly acidic soil mix and a pot that gives my roots a little room to grow (but not excessively so) creates the stable, low-stress environment I need to consider flowering.
My flowering cycle is also cued by subtle environmental factors. I thrive in consistently warm temperatures but appreciate a slight drop at night. If I am subjected to cold drafts from air conditioners or windows in winter, or extreme heat from a vent, the stress can cause me to drop existing buds and refuse to set new ones. Furthermore, I originate from environments with decent atmospheric humidity. Very dry air, especially that generated by indoor heating systems, can cause stress and desiccate delicate flower buds before they even have a chance to open. Maintaining a stable, warm temperature and occasionally misting my leaves or using a humidifier can replicate my preferred conditions and encourage blooming.
Your timing when pruning me is critical. I form my flower buds on new growth that emerges after a period of maturation. If you prune me heavily at the wrong time of year, particularly in late summer or fall, you are likely cutting away the branches that were preparing to develop bloom buds for the next cycle. The best time to shape me is right after my main flowering period has ended. This gives me ample time to produce new branches, allow them to mature, and then set buds for the next season's fragrant display.
