As a delphinium seed, my life begins in a state of enforced dormancy. My hard, dark brown outer coat is designed by nature to protect my internal embryo from harsh conditions, preventing immediate germination until the environment is just right. To break this dormancy and signal that it is time to grow, I require a period of cold, moist conditions that mimic the natural winter I would experience in my native habitat. This process, called cold stratification, is crucial. Without it, my germination rate will be very low and unpredictable. To awaken me, place my seeds in a moist paper towel inside a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate for one to two weeks. This chilly, damp treatment softens my coat and triggers the biochemical processes necessary for germination.
Once my stratification period is complete, I am ready for planting. My future roots are extremely sensitive to disturbance, so I prefer to be sown into individual, deep cells or pots. Use a fine, well-draining seed-starting mix; a heavy, soggy soil will cause me to rot before I ever see the light. Sow me on the surface of the moistened mix and press me in gently, as I need exposure to light to germinate effectively. Do not bury me deeply. The optimal temperature for my germination is a moderate 65-75°F (18-24°C). Consistent moisture is vital at this stage—keep the growing medium damp but not waterlogged, using a spray bottle to avoid displacing me. Covering my container with a clear plastic dome will help maintain the high humidity I crave during this delicate phase.
Within 14 to 21 days, I will send a small root (radicle) down into the soil and my first seed leaves (cotyledons) upward. As soon as I emerge, I must be given ample light to prevent me from becoming weak and leggy as I strain for a light source. A bright, south-facing window might suffice, but a grow light positioned just a few inches above my leaves is ideal, providing 14-16 hours of light daily. The plastic dome should now be removed to allow for air circulation and prevent damping-off disease, a fungal condition that can swiftly kill me. Water me from the bottom by placing my pot in a tray of water, allowing the soil to wick up moisture. This keeps my delicate stem and leaves dry and encourages my roots to grow downward strongly.
As I develop my first set of true leaves, which are characteristically lobed and different from my initial round cotyledons, I am building a strong root system and photosynthetic factory. Before I can be moved to my permanent home in the garden, I must be hardened off. This is a critical period of acclimatization. My leaves and stems, accustomed to the stable, protected indoor environment, are not yet ready for direct sun, wind, and fluctuating outdoor temperatures. Over 7-10 days, gradually introduce me to the outdoors. Start by placing me in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours, slowly increasing my exposure to sunlight and breeze each day. Bring me back indoors at night initially. This process thickens my cuticle and prepares my systems for life outside, preventing shock and ensuring I continue to grow vigorously once transplanted.
