From my perspective as a lavender plant, the best time for you to take cuttings is when my stems are mature yet still supple, not fully hardened and woody. This stage, which you call "semi-ripe" or "semi-hardwood," typically occurs in late spring after my initial flush of growth or in early autumn. At these times, I am actively growing but not flowering profusely or suffering from summer heat stress. My cells are dividing rapidly, and the hormonal signals that trigger root formation are at their peak. Taking cuttings during my dormant winter period or my intense flowering summer phase is much more stressful for me and significantly reduces the chances of successful propagation.
Please choose a healthy, vigorous stem from my current season's growth—one that is free from any flowers or buds. Blooms consume a massive amount of my energy, energy that should be redirected toward creating new roots. Using a sharp, clean knife or pruners, make a clean cut about 3 to 5 inches down from the tip, just below a leaf node (the bump on the stem where leaves emerge). This node is a hub of cellular activity and contains meristematic tissue, which is primed to develop into either a leaf or a root. A clean cut prevents crushing my vascular tissues and minimizes the entry point for pathogens.
Once separated from me, the parent plant, the cutting immediately begins to lose water. To reduce this transpirational loss, gently strip the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the stem. However, you must leave some leafy growth at the top. These remaining leaves are crucial as they will continue to perform photosynthesis, producing the sugars necessary to fuel the energy-intensive process of root development. While some gardeners recommend using a rooting hormone powder, from my cellular view, it acts as a powerful signal. It supplements my natural auxins (rooting hormones), encouraging the cells at the node to differentiate and form root primordia rather than leafy shoots, dramatically increasing the success rate.
My delicate cuttings require a very specific environment to thrive. You must provide a well-draining, low-fertility medium—something like a mix of perlite and peat or a specialized seed-starting mix. My greatest fear is rot. Saturated soil will suffocate my tissues and invite fungal infections. The medium must be moist but never waterlogged. Place my pot in a location with bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight would cook me in my humid container. Furthermore, maintaining high humidity around my leaves is paramount. Covering my pot with a clear plastic bag or dome creates a miniature greenhouse, drastically reducing water loss and keeping me turgid and healthy while I focus my energy below the soil.
Patience is essential. Root formation is not an instant process. Inside the stem, a callus tissue will first form over the wound to protect me. Then, with the hormonal cues, dedicated cells will begin organizing into root structures. This can take anywhere from 3 to 6 weeks. You can gently tug on me after a few weeks; resistance indicates that roots have formed and are anchoring me in the medium. Once I have established a sufficient root system, I can be gradually acclimated to less humid conditions and eventually transplanted into my own pot with a well-draining soil mix suited to my Mediterranean origins.
