As a delphinium, I thrive when my seeds are given the right conditions to germinate and grow. My seeds are small and delicate, requiring careful handling. Propagation from seeds is one of the most common ways to multiply my kind, but it demands patience and attention to detail. Unlike cuttings, which clone my exact traits, seeds may produce variations in color and form, adding diversity to the garden.
When my flowers fade and my seed pods turn brown and dry, it’s time to collect my seeds. Gently crush the pods to release the tiny black or dark brown seeds. Store them in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to sow. Some gardeners stratify my seeds—a process of chilling them for 2-4 weeks to mimic winter conditions—which can improve germination rates. Place the seeds in a damp paper towel inside a sealed bag in the refrigerator for this purpose.
I prefer well-draining, fertile soil with a slightly alkaline pH (6.5-7.5). A mix of peat-free compost and perlite works well. Sow my seeds in shallow trays or small pots with drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Fill the containers with the soil mix, lightly firming the surface without compacting it too much. My seeds need light to germinate, so they should be sown on the soil surface or barely covered with a fine layer of vermiculite.
Scatter my seeds evenly over the soil surface, spacing them about an inch apart to avoid overcrowding. Lightly press them into the soil but don’t bury them deeply. Mist the surface with water to settle the seeds without displacing them. Cover the tray or pot with a clear plastic lid or cling film to retain humidity, but ensure there’s some airflow to prevent mold. Place the container in a bright location but out of direct sunlight, as excessive heat can hinder germination.
I germinate best at temperatures between 15-18°C (59-64°F). Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Germination can take 14-30 days, so patience is key. Once my seedlings emerge, remove the cover to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of damping-off disease. Provide bright, indirect light to encourage strong growth. If using artificial lights, keep them 6-12 inches above the seedlings for 12-16 hours a day.
When my seedlings develop 2-3 true leaves, they’re ready to be transplanted into individual pots. Handle them gently by the leaves to avoid damaging the delicate stems. Use a dibber or spoon to lift them with some soil attached. Plant them in small pots filled with the same well-draining mix, firming the soil lightly around the roots. Water gently to help them settle in.
Before moving my young plants outdoors, they need to acclimate to outside conditions—a process called hardening off. Over 7-10 days, gradually expose them to outdoor sunlight and wind, starting with a few hours in a sheltered spot and increasing the time each day. Once hardened, plant them in a sunny or partially shaded location with rich, well-drained soil. Space them 12-18 inches apart to allow for mature growth. Water thoroughly after planting and mulch to retain moisture.
As I grow, stake my tall stems to prevent them from toppling in wind or rain. Water me regularly, especially during dry spells, but avoid wetting the foliage to reduce disease risk. Feed with a balanced fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming and prevent excessive self-seeding. With proper care, I’ll reward you with vibrant spikes of flowers in my second year.
