From the perspective of the amaryllis plant (Hippeastrum spp.), dormancy is a natural survival strategy to conserve energy during unfavorable conditions. As daylight decreases and temperatures drop in winter, the plant senses these environmental cues and begins to prepare for dormancy. The leaves gradually yellow and wither as the amaryllis redirects nutrients from its foliage to the bulb, its underground storage organ. This process ensures the bulb retains enough energy to survive the winter and re-emerge in spring.
The amaryllis bulb relies on external signals to initiate dormancy. Reduced light exposure and cooler temperatures (below 60°F or 15°C) signal the plant to slow metabolic activity. As a bulbous plant, the amaryllis is adapted to store water and nutrients in its fleshy scales, allowing it to endure periods of drought or cold. If these signals are absent (e.g., in consistently warm indoor environments), the plant may skip dormancy, leading to weaker growth cycles over time.
As dormancy approaches, the amaryllis actively breaks down chlorophyll in its leaves, causing them to yellow and droop. This is not a sign of neglect but a deliberate process to reclaim nutrients like nitrogen and potassium for storage in the bulb. Gardeners should resist the urge to remove leaves prematurely, as this deprives the bulb of essential resources. Only when leaves are completely brown and dry should they be gently trimmed.
Once dormant, the amaryllis bulb requires a cool (50–55°F or 10–13°C), dark, and dry environment to mimic its natural habitat. A basement, garage, or unheated room is ideal. The bulb should be placed in a breathable container (e.g., a paper bag or mesh tray) to prevent mold. Unlike some bulbs, amaryllis does not require soil during storage but benefits from occasional misting to prevent excessive dehydration. Avoid freezing temperatures, as they damage the bulb's cellular structure.
Even in dormancy, the amaryllis bulb remains alive, albeit at a minimal metabolic rate. Check monthly for signs of rot or shriveling. A healthy bulb will feel firm and heavy. If the bulb appears desiccated, lightly dampen the surrounding air or potting medium. If mold develops, increase ventilation and reduce humidity. Never water a dormant bulb excessively, as this risks fungal infections.
After 8–12 weeks of dormancy, the amaryllis bulb detects warmer temperatures and increased light, triggering new growth. At this stage, gardeners can repot the bulb in fresh, well-draining soil, leaving the top third exposed. Water sparingly until active growth resumes, then increase moisture gradually. The bulb will prioritize root regeneration before producing a new flower stalk, drawing on stored energy to fuel the process.
Overwatering during dormancy suffocates the bulb, leading to rot. Similarly, storing the bulb in overly warm conditions disrupts its natural cycle, depleting energy reserves prematurely. Forcing the plant to skip dormancy entirely (e.g., by keeping it in constant growth) exhausts the bulb, resulting in smaller or absent blooms in subsequent seasons. The amaryllis thrives when its innate seasonal rhythm is respected.
