Cyclamen, native to Mediterranean regions and parts of Europe, thrives in cool, humid environments with dappled sunlight. As a tuberous perennial, it enters dormancy in summer and blooms from autumn to spring. Indoors, replicating these conditions is key to its health. The plant prefers temperatures between 50–65°F (10–18°C) and avoids direct heat or drafts.
Cyclamen favors bright, indirect light. Place it near an east- or north-facing window where it receives gentle morning sun or filtered light. Avoid south-facing windows with intense afternoon sun, which can scorch the leaves. During dormancy (summer), reduce light exposure to mimic its natural cycle.
Water cyclamen from the bottom to avoid wetting the tuber, which can lead to rot. Fill a saucer with water and let the plant absorb it for 15–20 minutes, then discard excess. Keep the soil moist but not soggy during active growth. Reduce watering as leaves yellow in dormancy, but do not let the tuber dry out completely.
Cyclamen thrives in 40–50% humidity. Use a pebble tray or humidifier to maintain moisture, especially in dry indoor air. Keep the plant away from radiators, vents, or cold drafts. Temperatures above 68°F (20°C) can trigger dormancy prematurely, while frost damages the foliage.
Use a well-draining, peat-based potting mix with perlite or sand to prevent waterlogging. Cyclamen prefers slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0–6.5). Repot every 2–3 years in early autumn, choosing a pot just slightly larger than the tuber to avoid excess soil moisture.
Feed cyclamen every 3–4 weeks during active growth with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Avoid high-nitrogen formulas, which promote leaves over flowers. Stop fertilizing once blooming ends and the plant enters dormancy.
When leaves yellow and flowers fade, reduce watering and move the plant to a cooler, darker spot (e.g., a basement) for 2–3 months. Resume care in late summer by gradually reintroducing light and moisture. New growth indicates the end of dormancy.
Watch for spider mites, aphids, or cyclamen mites, which thrive in dry conditions. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Gray mold (Botrytis) and root rot occur from overwatering—ensure proper drainage and airflow to prevent fungal issues.
Remove spent flowers and yellowing leaves by twisting the stems near the base to avoid damaging the tuber. Regular deadheading encourages new blooms and prevents disease. Sterilize tools before pruning to avoid spreading pathogens.
Cyclamen can be propagated by seed or tuber division. Sow seeds in autumn, keeping them moist and cool (60°F/15°C) for germination. For tuber division, cut healthy tubers into sections with at least one growth eye in early autumn, dusting cuts with fungicide before replanting.